Each species of snake has different body types, colors and sizes, different activity levels, and different care requirements in order to thrive in captivity. But it’s important to ask yourself some questions in order to choose the best fit for you:

• Are you looking for a slow-moving, less active species you might be able to hang out and watch movies with?

• Are you looking for one that is more active during the day that you can admire in its enclosure, or one that is more active at night?

• Are you looking for a smaller species, or a larger one? 

• Do you like the idea of less or more work when it comes to environmental parameters and maintaining their enclosure?

• Do you prefer certain colors, patterns and body shapes- and WHY?

No matter what anyone says about the “general temperament” of a certain species, each animal is an individual with its own unique personality, so don’t take any broad generalizations about a species as law.
A good tip is to visit reputable vendors or even friends with pet snakes in order to get an in-person experience with different species- or even several different individuals of the same species- in order to get a real sense of which one resonates with you the most.

You may see a lot of online chatter or videos about “Best Beginner Species”, but this is a dangerous concept.
No animal should be treated as an experiment, or be purchased as a “stepping stone” to advancement and experience. These are living beings that ALL deserve the best care possible, and therefore you should only get the species that you are truly passionate about.
If you want a species that requires more knowledge to care for, then you should get that one- you’ll just need to spend a lot more time preparing and learning ahead of time.
Getting an animal you may grow bored of later just so that you can get some experience under your belt is not ethical, nor is it fair to the animal. 
No matter what anyone says, reptile care isn’t “easy”… nor is it cheap. No animal is a “beginner”… only humans are.

A snake’s lifespan is usually measured in DECADES.
Most snakes can live for 15-25 years, but there are recorded cases of 40-60 year old snakes, so this is not a commitment to take lightly. Far too many snakes end up surrendered to rescues (or worse) because kids left for college, someone’s lifestyle/priorities changed, or they simply got bored after they’d had the animal for a few years. Make sure you are ready for a long-term commitment before getting a snake.

Not knowing how big the species will get is another reason so many snakes end up surrendered or re-homed. Most baby snakes are tiny, but you might be shocked that the shoestring sized noodle you get in a deli cup could end up being 10’+ long as an adult. It is YOUR responsibility to understand how large the snake may get once it reaches maturity before you commit, account for sexual dimorphism (different sexes of a species can be very different sizes as adults), and be realistic about whether you will be able to provide them with the space they need at all stages of their life. A 7’ snake needs a very large enclosure- and even space to roam outside of that enclosure- if you want them to live a long and happy life. You don’t fit in a baby crib anymore… so don’t expect a snake to be happy in a tiny enclosure for its entire life, either. They need to be able to use their bodies and exercise their muscles just like any other animal does.

The most important thing you can do is to spend a lot of time reading up on the natural history of each species you’re interested in BEFORE you bring them home. Make sure you don’t use a single source to gather information about them, either. 

There are a LOT of different opinions and “care guides” on the internet, and it can be overwhelming and confusing to know which one to trust. However, some are more reliable than others, and you should always supplement “care guides” with a deep dive into the natural history of the animal.

• Use the species’ scientific name to do your searches and you’ll get more accurate, evidence based information.

• Look on inaturalist.com to find out where in the world the animal is found in the wild, how it’s behaving in its natural habitat, and then try to find accurate weather data for the locations it comes from to make sure you fully understand the environmental conditions it would be exposed to.

• Reptiles are ectotherms, and rely on external thermal gradients to regulate body temperatures and metabolic processes. No single care guide will give you the “perfect” answer for what the animal needs, but you must ensure they have a gradient of temperatures and humidity levels that suit them, and the space/ability to choose their exposure to those at any given time. Don’t fall for any guides that say “They don’t need x” in regards to thermal gradients (no, “ambient temperature” is NOT okay for any snake), lighting, and access to UVB. Regardless if a snake is nocturnal or diurnal, they have evolved to rely on external temperatures, sunlight, and photoperiods for healthy metabolic/biological processes. 

NEVER IMPULSE BUY AN ANIMAL. Reptiles are extremely resilient creatures, but that doesn’t meant mean they can’t suffer in the wrong conditions. Unfortunately, reptiles can suffer in silence for long periods before you ever know they are unhappy or unhealthy- and by the time you realize it, it could be too late. Some reptiles are more sensitive than others, and the wrong temperatures or humidity levels could cause them serious harm or even death. If you’ve done your research and know what they need, the next step is to make sure you have their enclosure and all of the elements they need already set up and TESTED out before you bring them home.
You can and should continue to improve and adapt their home as they grow and in response to their behavior, but the most essential elements should already be in place before the animal is exposed to them. That initial settling in period will set the tone for their experience with you, and vice versa.
If they are uncomfortable, scared, or do not have the environmental conditions they need, they are not going to want to engage with you, or could be defensive. And if that happens, that’s not their fault- it’s yours. 

Exotic Veterinarians aren’t always easy to find. Before you get your snake, make a list of the closest exotic vets in your vicinity, both for standard and emergency care. Note their distance from your home, hours of operation, and their specialties. Call them to see if they’re familiar with your snake’s species, and pick one to take your snake to for a checkup sometime within the first year you have them.
Health checks are just as important for reptiles as for mammals, especially because they don’t cry in pain or show symptoms of illness the same way as mammals do. Be prepared!

If this is your first snake, congratulations! I’m sure you’re so excited to hang out with them! However, the first thing you need to do when you get your new snake is to LEAVE THEM ALONE FOR 1-2 WEEKS. (Now read that again) Whether this is a baby or an adult, the snake needs time to settle into its new home without your interference. Allow them to get familiarized with their new environment and get used to your presence outside of their enclosure. Observe their behavior, but please don’t handle your new snake right away, no matter how much you want to. You can watch this video for tips on how to build trust with your snake! 

QUARANTINE is one of the most overlooked and crucial elements of reptile care. If you have any other reptiles in your home, it is absolutely critical that you keep your new snake separate from them for at least the initial 3-6 months. That means they should be in a separate room or part of the house, preferably with doors that might prevent any airborne illnesses to easily spread to your other reptiles. Remember, illness in reptiles is not always visible right away, or can be asymptomatic initially. You can have your snake tested for many of these illnesses, but you should always allow for this quarantine period regardless, and if you do handle them, or come into contact with things in their enclosure, you should make sure to wash your hands thoroughly before and after touching any of your other animals. 

Snakes are carnivores, so part of snake parenthood is being able to stomach the idea of feeding them other animals. However, you do not need to and SHOULD NOT be feeding live prey to captive snakes unless absolutely necessary.
Whole, Frozen Thawed (FT) prey is the safest way to feed your snake, and is readily available at pet stores and in bulk by specialty vendors.
Live prey has the potential to seriously harm or even kill your pet snake in a captive setting. The argument that it is “more natural” for them to hunt live prey is not a valid reason to put them in danger. Trust me, it’s just not worth it, and there are plenty of ways you can enrich their lives and hunting experience without feeding them live animals. It’s also easier for YOU, and more humane for the prey animals!
Make sure you offer your snake a variety of appropriate prey items throughout their lives to give them a balanced diet and nutrition.
Snakes are not mammals: Do not overfeed your snake! Overfeeding is one of the primary causes of premature death for captive snakes. Do your research, and understand what your snake’s healthy body condition should look like.